Stephan Janson, Sybilla and Margarita Ruyra in conversation with Joana Bonet

One of the greatest compliments you can make Stephan Janson is that his creations are handed down from mothers to daughters, and even granddaughters. A bon mot that illustrates the philosophy with which this Frenco/Italian approaches his work. From the age of eight he knew he wanted to become a fashion designer. He spotted an Yves Saint Laurent dress on the cover of a magazine at his grandmother’s. At 14, he managed to be introduced to his idol, who directed him to the school Saint Roch, a very traditional training ground for haute couture. However, as Janson avows, his real university was attending his master’s four fashion shows a year.

He suddenly had the opportunity of working with Kenzo and Diane von Furstenberg in New York. He would later move to Milan following his partner and there set up his own business. Success did not take long and the catwalk shows in Milan were followed with great expectation by the international fashion media. The maelstrom of running a business was not for him. He decided to sell only to the clients who could appreciate his work. He closed down the shops and sought refuge in his Milanese atelier where he works with ten collaborators. The principle is to work on timeless pieces, paying close attention to the quality of the fabrics, the originality of the design and quality of the workmanship. His creations can only be found in 20 boutiques around the world, including his studio in Milan.

At an early age, Sybilla found herself involved in the fashion world. Without prior training in the field, what was a ‘game’ for her became her passion. After a brief period of apprenticeship at the Yves Saint Laurent atelier, when she was just 20 years old, she organized what was her first fashion show at the Jacobo Siruela’s pavilion, in Madrid. Back then, she already evinced deep interest in the environment and the sustainability question in the use of cloth that came from the Madrilenian Rastro. The 1985 Gaudí Hall in Barcelona hosted her first prêt-à-porter collection. Soon after, her brand began to stand out at department stores all around the world, as well as at the most important fashion shows, not only betting for women clothing, but also for bed clothing and cosmetics, becoming our most international fashion designer. At the age of 25, she was awarded with the Golden Needle by Dafnis, and the Balenciaga award, created by the Spanish Ministry of Industry. After such outstanding international success, in 2005, she did split herself up from her brand and sought refuge in Mallorca, where she founded a study centre, specialized in sustainability and social transformation. In 2014, after her return to international exhibitions, she was awarded with the Gold Medal in Beaux Arts, and the National Fashion Award in 2015. At present, she does not only keeps designing by focusing on using responsible sourced fabrics, but she also gives much importance to handcrafted complements. In the same vein, she has played an active role in the creation of the Fabrics For Freedom Foundation, whose goal is to push textile and handcrafted projects that have a positive impact in its production, from the economic, social or environmental point of view.

Margarita Ruyra de Andrade (Madrid, 1963) is Director of the Zuloaga Foundation and co-founder of ES Fascinante, an online boutique for the promotion of Spanish fashion and emerging national designers. They represent the slow fashion movement: sustainable, quality and handmade fashion. Together with España Fascinante, they share the legacy of the Zuloaga family of artists and artisans, who, for several generations, promoted Spanish creation and culture.

Stephan Janson, Sybilla and Margarita Ruyra talk with the journalist and writer Joana Bonet.

Stephan Janson and Sybilla will participate live by videoconference, while Ms Ruyra and Joana Bonet will be on stage

This session will be streamed live at YouTube

Photography of Stephan Janson: © Guido Taroni, courtesy of Around Art
Photography of Sybilla: © Félix Valiente
Photography of Joana Bonet: © Carlos Cortés
Photography of Margarita Ruyra: courtesy of Around Art
Videos: Stephan Janson 2015 / Sybilla 1982-2015